Rabbits make wonderful pets. They are unique creatures and develop their own personalities.

Rabbits are generally clean and can often be housetrained to use a litter box. They are interesting, docile, interact well with people, and can become quite affectionate.

But before getting a rabbit as pet, there are several things to consider and prepare for. Prior to adoption, a potential rabbit owner should understand the requirements of caring for rabbits as they are not low maintenance pets.

Many people buy a rabbit without knowing what to expect. As a result thousands of rabbits end up being euthanized in shelters every year. Before choosing a pet rabbit, potential owners should consider whether a rabbit is a suitable pet for their home, environment and lifestyle.

A good preparation for all the unique qualities and needs of rabbits will give the best opportunity to fully enjoy the wonderful companionship they can offer.

Rabbits may be small, but they require a lot of room for housing and exercise. They can be kept in a cage or in a rabbit proof room.

Pet Bunnies spending most of the time in a cage will need the biggest cage that is practical and suitable. The more room the better.

The cage needs to offer enough space for food, water, litter box and toys. The rabbit should be able to hop around, stand up tall and stretch out long. Rabbits love to climb so they will enjoy a multi-level rabbit cage with ramps.

It is important to keep in mind that young rabbits will outgrow small pet store cages. A versatile and reasonably cheap cage can be made from storage cubes.

A cage is no substitute for exercise and social time out of the cage. A rabbit needs at least two hours per day of out-of-cage time in a safe environment. The strong muscles in his back legs will weaken if he is not given opportunities to run, jump and play.

Rabbits may not make ideal pets for small children.

Rabbits often take some time to feel comfortable around people and bond with them. This can require patience and may be difficult to understand for small kids.

Most rabbits become afraid if they are carried around, cuddled or petted. As result they may bite, kick or scratch to protect themselves from well-meaning children. They can also injure themselves trying to escape.

Many rabbits are dropped accidentally by kids, resulting in broken legs and backs. They are easily stressed out by loud noise and rough activity.

Every year thousands of rabbits are abandoned at animal shelters for these reasons.

An adult should always be the primary caretaker of a pet rabbit so that proper care and handling can be provided. It is important for parents to teach their children proper care procedures. Interactions between kids and rabbits should always be monitored.

Rabbits enjoy living together and are generally happier and healthier in pairs or groups.

Rabbits raised together from kits are generally pair bonded for life. They love to interact with each other by grooming, playing or cuddling.

Single rabbits tend to get bored and depressed if they don’t get enough attention.

If a rabbit is going to be alone for eight hours or more a day, adopting a rabbit friend should seriously be considered. Getting the rabbit a buddy rarely changes the rabbit's relationship with the owner.

Rabbits have their preferences about with whom they like to hang out, so it can be difficult to bond a pair of rabbits. They often fight when they are first introduced until one rabbit is deemed to be the dominant rabbit. The easiest and most natural pairing of two rabbits is done with a neutered male and a spayed female.

Rabbits are considered as exotic animals and need specialized vet care. They will almost certainly require expensive vet care at some point in their lives.

Veterinarians who exclusively see cats and dogs may not be adequately trained and experienced in rabbit health issues or  medicine. Finding a knowledgeable vet is crucial to the rabbit’s health and well being.

Rabbits should be spayed or neutered. Experienced vets can do the surgery with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Overgrown teeth, foot problems, digestive problems, and respiratory diseases are the most common disease conditions.

Rabbits must be watched carefully for signs of unusual behavior. After all, a rabbit owner knows what is normal for the rabbit better than anyone.

Baby rabbits are adorable, there is no doubt. With a young rabbit, you will get to enjoy watching the animal grow up.

Baby rabbits start off cuddly and adorable, but the downside is that they require much more time and care than grown rabbits. Young rabbits can be incredibly destructive and harder to train.

Baby rabbits may grow extremely quickly into a rather large rabbit and may have a different personality as adult.

Adult rabbits are the sure thing as you can see their size and get an idea of their personality. Grown rabbits tend to be calmer and easier to train. Most have already gone through the adolescent phase and their hormonal changes. Adult rabbits may already have been litter trained and been spayed or neutered.

Always consider rescuing an adult rabbit and saving a life before purchasing a baby one.

Spaying or neutering a pet rabbit brings many advantages in terms of behavior and health. It is highly recommended to alter a rabbit.

The obvious reason is to prevent them from reproducing. Rabbits are killed at shelters every day due to the huge overpopulation.

Rabbits that have been spayed or neutered live longer and are better pets. They tend to be calmer, easier to train and are often more affectionate and much easier to bond.

Males will be less likely to fight and neutering will eliminate urine spraying. For females, spaying will prevent the risk of uterine cancers. 

Rabbits can be altered at four to six months of age. When performed by a skilled surgeon with rabbit experience, the risk of the surgery is very low. Bunnies are allowed to eat prior to surgery.

Rabbits require some essential accessories right away that help them live comfortably and content.

Outdoor rabbits will need a secure hutch that will keep them safe from predators. Indoor rabbits require an appropriate sized cage or a play room. The cage should to be large enough to house the rabbit, a litter box, a nest box, toys and a food container along with enough space for the rabbit to move freely.

The litter box should contain all natural or organic litters. Some litters like cat litters, pine, cedar, litters with fragrances or corncob litter are not safe for rabbits. A nest box is a hideaway for a rabbit where they can sleep and go to feel safe. Food bowls needs to be heavy enough so that the rabbit doesn’t dump its contents. The hay rack holds the daily hay ration. Fresh drinking water is essential, either provided in a water bottle that hangs on the cage or a heavy enough dish. Nail clippers will also be necessary as their nails have to be trimmed. Good self-made rabbit toys are empty paper towel and toilet paper rolls, untreated wood that has been aged, old phone books and boxes.

Before bringing a rabbit home, a suitable location for the cage should be chosen.

If possible the cage should be set in an area where you spend a lot of time, such as the living room or family room. The more contact you have with your rabbit, the more you will enjoy each other.

Rabbits have highly sensitive hearing. They do not appreciate a location where they are exposed to loud noises like a TV or stereo.

The cage should be placed away from any heat source as rabbits are easily overheated. This means no direct sunlight and no heaters close to the cage. Rabbits prefer cool temperatures ranging from 54 to 72°F. The cage should have adequate ventilation.

Entering a new environment can be very scary for a rabbit, so it is important to let the rabbit adjust smoothly.

Transporting the rabbit is a stressful experience. The rabbit will need some time to recover alone in the cage. All other pets should be kept away from the newcomer. Too many things at once will cause unnecessary stress for the rabbit. Any loud noises like TV or radio should be avoided during the first days. It might be a good idea to get some food that the rabbit has been eating before. This will make adjusting to the new environment somewhat easier.

It will take some time before the bunny will start to explore and adjust to the new place. The rabbit needs to learn that there is no danger in the new environment before the animal will feel entirely comfortable.

The rabbit will be adjusted successfully once the animal begins to eat and drink, groom itself or to stretch out and fully relax.

Rabbits need to get used to each other gradually. Some bondings are fairly easy while others are difficult. It is considerably easier if both rabbits in the pairing have been fixed.

In the beginning, let the bunnies get used to each other and bring them together in neutral territory. Somewhere neither rabbit has ever been.

If they show aggressive behavior and start to fight, separate them and try again later. As long as they are not fighting, this is a good sign. It is typical and a good start, if they are coexisting in their neutral space.

Rabbits are successfully bonded when they begin to sit closer, sleep near each other, eat together and start grooming each other. The rabbits may occasionally show dominance behavior even though they are successfully bonded. 

The average length of time until most rabbits are pretty well bonded is about one week, but it can also take as little as one afternoon or as long as many months. Take it slow, be sensible, and let your bunnies decide how their friendship is going to progress.

Rabbits are lovable and lively animals and make wonderful companions for people who take the time to learn about their needs.

Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn't difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan and many specific care requirements. Some regular routines are needed to keep the rabbit healthy and happy.

Anyone considering adopting a rabbit should understand the facts and information on rabbit care before making a decision.

How often a rabbit cage needs to be cleaned depends on the size of the cage and how well the rabbit is litter trained. An unclean rabbit cage can turn into a breeding ground for bacteria and parasites, so the cage will need regularly cleaning to avoid illnesses and diseases in the rabbit.

As a general rule, a thorough cleaning of the rabbit's cage should be done at least once a week. Bring the rabbit to a safe place for the time of the cage cleaning. Take food dishes, toys, and water bottles/dishes out, dump the shavings and the pour rinse the tray  out with a hose. Warm water and a scrub brush is required for a more thorough cleaning. Finally fill the tray with fresh shavings adn put back in food and water.

However doing a bit of cleaning every day will help to keep the cage clean. That way the rabbit will stay healthy and happy. Wet or soiled hay from the floor of the cage should be removed. Small messes such as water spills or litter box misses can be cleaned and the the litter box should be scooped or cleaned as necessary.

The bottom wire of an outdoor hutch may need to be brushed daily, but the entire hutch may only need to be cleaned quarterly.

Most rabbits show no outward signs of illness. To make sure a rabbit is in good health, the pet’s behavioral patterns need to be observed closely on a daily basis, especially during feeding and playtimes. Many illnesses are caused by incorrect maintenance and nutrition. The earlier a symptom is recognized, the better are the chances of healing.

The two most noticeable signs of sickness in a rabbit are lethargy and feces that are not normal. If the rabbit's usual activity level lessens, try to tempt him with his favorite vegetable, treat or toy. If the animal doesn’t seem to eat and even refuses his favorite treat, take the rabbit to the vet immediately. If the rabbit’s feces are smaller than normal, very soft or dry or even nonexistent, the stomach or cecum may be blocked. Dry feces mean the rabbit may be dehydrated and needs subcutaneous fluids immediately. If his feces are too soft, the bunny may have a virus. Bring the rabbit to the vet immediately if you notice any of these symptoms.

Severe pain can be recognized by a quiet sound of grinding teeth and a bland stare. Be careful not to miss this very low sound.

Most rabbits are very playful animals and appreciate a selection of fun toys.

Toys will help keep a rabbit physically active and prevent boredom. Try to find out what is entertaining to your rabbit, and continue to provide new toys. You can either buy toys from pet stores or make simple toys from common household items.

One rabbit may like shredding things to bits while another might enjoy rolling willow balls around the floor. Paper bags, cardboard boxes, tunnels or platforms, towels, a box full of shredded paper or toilet paper rolls stuffed with Timothy hay are other neat toys. Since rabbits are chewers, they love to shred paper like the phone book or newspapers.

Rabbits are very curios and love to chew. That’s why your house needs to be rabbit proof, so the rabbit and your belongings are protected.

Be certain there are no plants close enough to the floor for the rabbit to reach. Many houseplants are toxic to them.

Block access to wooden furnishings that are at the rabbit's level. Provide suitable chewing toys and constructive ways to burn off energy.

Electrical cords are a very serious threat to a bunny. Cover all electrical cords with heavy plastic tubing.

Carpets appear to be almost irresistible to rabbits. They often start digging or chewing holes into the carpet. They also enjoy shredding books or new papers, so keep all papers out of rabbit reach.

Keep doors to cupboards, closets and other rooms firmly closed. The rabbit can get plenty of exercise and stay out of excessive trouble when confined to a single room. Make sure there are no other pets around when the rabbit is loose. 

Rabbits are not suitable for vacation travel because they suffer from changes in climate and environment. The rabbit will do best in his own home with the diet the animal is used to receiving.

If you will be gone for more than 24 hours, do not leave the rabbit alone with extra food as there is a very high risk of the animal eating improperly or becoming stressed and ill. Before leaving for vacation you need to find a reliable pet sitter to check on the animal every day, to provide fresh food and water and be sure the rabbit is ok.

If you need to take your rabbit to the vet, make sure you have a safe transport container. Place some newspaper or a towel along with some food in the bottom of the carrier to make the rabbit more comfortable. Traveling is a very stressful experience for the rabbit.

When rabbits do binkies, they jump straight up in the air and twist their head and body in different directions. Some variations include a jump with no twist, a 180 degree turn, or a jump with a head turn.

Sometimes called the “Happy Bunny Dance”, binkies are done when rabbits are extemely excited, hyper or happy. 

Some rabbits binky a lot while others rarely do it at all. It depends on their personality. Rabbits may binky on the spot or run first to gain speed.

Binkies can help rabbits to escape from predators. The air jumps allow them to change their running direction immediately which makes it easier to leave the predator behind.

Rabbits normally don’t bite, but they certainly can if they have a reason. It depends on the rabbit's personality and how the animal is raised. Altering a rabbit often helps to stop biting behavior.

If a rabbit is biting, try to find out what is causing the reaction. Rabbits may bite if you do something the animal doesn't want you to, for example some rabbits don’t like being petted or picked up. On the other hand, a rabbit may nip you to get attention or something else the animal wants.

Rabbits can't see right in front so they will investigate with a bite if they can't identify with their nose. The rabbit may think that your finger coming toward them is food or a predator. Be slow approaching and petting the rabbit, let him smell you first.

Rabbits love to burrow, because it is a natural behavior for them.

Outside, rabbits can dig underground tunnels and run away easily. To prevent their escape, please make sure the borders of their run are protected. For example you can cover the floor with wire mesh or put a row of bricks around the insides of the outdoor area. They then will learn soon that there is no escape.

A house rabbit scratching the floor either wants attention or is attempting to make a burrow. To keep them from digging up the carpet and other destructive behaviors, you need to give them some alternatives in which they can dig. Rabbits love boxes with shredded paper, hay or even soil.

Rabbits eat their own poop. This sounds gross, but it is actually a very important part of the rabbits health.

They produce two types of droppings and they are very different. The one most often seen is the fecal dropping. These are the hard round ones that are seen in the dropping trays. Rabbits do not eat these.

The other type of dropping is known as a cecotrope. Sometimes it is referred to as the night droppings. They actually resemble a small cluster of grapes. Unlike fecal droppings these droppings are soft. Cecotropes are produced in the cecum which is a part of the rabbits digestive system. Inside the cecum are bacterias that are essential nutrients to the rabbit.

It is believed that the cecotropes can protect the rabbit from harmful pathogens. The rabbit will eat them as they are leaving their body. Generally they do this late at night or in the early morning hours.

Chewing is a very natural and needed behavior for rabbits. It is important because it keeps the ever-growing teeth at the right length.

Rabbits love to chew almost everything in your house, like electric cables, paper, furniture, cushions and so on. The key is to teach them what is appropriate for chewing and what is off-limits. It's not possible to get rabbits to stop chewing, so please provide a good variety of alternatives like branches from apple or willow trees, safe rabbit toys, untreated willow baskets and toys, untreated grass mats or cardboards.

Don’t give your pet rabbit a free run in your home, unless things like electrical wires or furniture are protected. Rabbit proofing your home involves eliminating danger for us as well as protecting your property from damage.

Two same-gender rabbits circling each other signals an attempt to gain dominance. As long as they are not pulling fur or kicking, circling is fine. But watch closely as it may lead to fighting.

When two opposite-gender rabbits circle each other, it probably means they are about to mate. If the doe is in heat, she will be pregnant in no time. Separate them if you don't want baby bunnies.

A rabbit that follows a human around circling around the feet may just be trying to get attention and wants to play. But more likely the rabbit is courting, especially if accompanied by soft honking noises.

Rabbits do love to climb up on anything they can find. This includes boxes, stairs, furniture and anything that is reachable.

They enjoy both, the thrill of the climb and the better view of the surroundings. Rabbits like to hang out on the top level and just look down on everyone that walks by.

A playhouse with different levels is perfect, so they can jump up and down all day. Make sure the bottom and ramps are stabilized (no wire), so they can safely climb from level to level.

A content rabbit that is sitting still or grooming may suddenly flop onto its side and lay still on the floor.

It might look scary the first time a rabbit does this. A flopped bunny often looks dead, so it is not uncommon for a new rabbit owner to think something is wrong. But no need to worry, the rabbit is just expressing that he's happy and chilled.

A rabbit must feel very safe indeed before he will do the "Bunny Flop" so it can be taken as a complement.

Knowing a rabbit’s anatomy will help you better understand your pet bunny. Rabbits come in a variety of sizes, colors and length of fur.

They are are natural prey for a large number of carnivores which does not necessarily mean rabbits are frail animals. They have evolved their anatomy to be constantly vigilant, lightweight and fast-moving so they don’t attract predator attention.

The best known characteristics of a rabbit's anatomy are the huge ears, the wiggly nose, the big eyes, the strong back legs and the unusual tail.

The average body temperature of a rabbit is between 99.1 and 102.9 degrees. A resting rabbit has a breathing rate of 50 - 150 per minute and a heart frequency of 120 - 150 per minute.

Rabbits have a relatively weak back and because of the strength in their back legs, they can cause themselves considerable damage.

When picking up a rabbit, it is important to support the rabbit’s body weight so that they feel very comfortable and struggle as little as possible. Twisting and kicking out by the powerful hind legs must be avoided, or serious back injury can result.

Never approach a rabbit from behind, as this is reminiscent of being attacked by a predator and can cause fear for the rabbit.

As a rabbit relaxes, its back will sink lower and the rabbit will flatten. Some rabbits will even roll onto their backs.

A dewlap is a roll of fur under the rabbit’s chin.

More commonly, female rabbits will have a dewlap. Although in certain breeds, the bucks can a small dewlap as well, but nothing comparable what females develop.

Does mostly have dewlaps because they are a store of extra fat used during pregnancy and while nursing a litter. They pull the soft fur from the dewlap to line the nest with. Female rabbits that develop dewlaps usually begin to do so around 6-9 months of age, presuming they are not spayed as the growth of the dewlap is dictated by hormones.

Not all rabbit breeds develop a dewlap. A male rabbit with a dewlap or a female rabbit with a huge dewlap can be a sign of overweight, although the oversize dewlap will persist after weight loss.

The rabbits' long ears are its most prominent features.

The ears cover up to 12% of the body surface and are formed like sound funnels. They can be rotated individually up to nearly 270º to allow detection of a sound source or even to monitor two sounds at once. Rabbits have an excellent hearing ability and react with fear to unfamiliar loud noises.

The ears are responsible for heat regulation as rabbits cannot sweat. They primarily get rid of excess heat from the body through their ears to keep cool. If a rabbit is left outside without shade on a hot day, he will get hot ears because he is getting overheated and he could very well get heatstroke and die.

Rabbit ears are a good indicator of how a rabbit is feeling and provide an excellent means of communication. When rabbit ears are up, they are in alert and concentration mode and listening for unusual sounds. If they are pinned to their head and lying flat on the ground, they are trying not to be noticed by whatever they think represents a danger to them. A relaxing rabbit often lays the ears down on the back.

Rabbits open their eyes when they are about 10 days old. The eyes are placed on the sides of a rabbit head and come in different colors like brown, blue or pink.

The pupils can be minimally narrowed. They only blink about 12 times an hour, but they blink so fast that human eyes don’t notice it.

Rabbits are able to see an entire view circle, which is important to escape predators. They even can see well above their heads. They have a small blind spot directly behind them and directly in front of them, that’s why a rabbit can take some time to find a treat placed close to the face.

The eyes are designed for long-sighted use, so they can detect movement from long distances. They have a poor sight for near objects and a very limited color vision.

Bright lights have a blinding effect. Rabbits see objects two-dimensional rather than three-dimensional.

A rabbit’s upper lip is called hare lip.

It is divided into two halves under the nose. The hare lips are very sensitive. Along with the whiskers they help rabbits to find food.

The split in the rabbit’s upper lip exposes the front teeth which aids them in gathering food.

Rabbits would normally lick their lips because they had water or food on them.

Rabbits are good at keeping their fur clean and tidy. They groom themselves regularly by licking their fur from top to bottom several times a day. That’s why they don’t need a bath. If rabbits get fecal matter stuck in fur, only that area needs to be washed.

Some rabbits can change the color of their fur which is usually genetic. It can also be due to a dead coat on spots, where the fur is getting ready to be shed out.

Rabbits shed every three months. One shed can be light and may not even be noticeable whereas the next shed can be heavy. Rabbits can lose a lot of hair during a heavy sheds and may even develop bald areas. Rabbits are not able to vomit. Their loose hair they lick can cause blockage in their stomachs, and they will stop eating. This can result in death due to the delicate gastrointestinal system.

A pregnant rabbit doe pulls her own hair off her chest and makes a nest. Therabbit babies will be covered with the fur which helps to keep themwarm.

Food is taken into the rabbit's mouth with the lips and front teeth and then moved via the tongue to the cheek teeth. Rabbits chew their food thoroughly with highly organized tongue movements and up to 120 jaw movements per minute.

Rabbits have a total of 28 teeth. They have four large incisors (front teeth) and also two tiny incisors (peg teeth) located right behind the upper incisors. In the back of their mouth, they have six upper and five lower cheek teeth on each side.

A rabbit's teeth grow throughout its whole life. Rabbits have to spend lot of time eating and chewing to keep their teeth properly worn down by grinding the bottom teeth against the top teeth. The teeth are worn down at a rate of approximately 3mm per week.

Rabbits will often grind the teeth softly out of pleasure when they are being petted. Loud grinding is a sign of pain.

Rabbits have the potential for many tooth problems, which can affect their lifelong health. This is why it is so important to be observant and proactive about preventative care.

The rabbit’s tail is known as a scut.

In rabbits the underside is mostly white whereas the upper side usually is the surface color of the fur.

The scut is used for communication between several rabbits. When running away from enemies, the exposure of the white part is used as a danger signal and guiding service in the right direction to reach the warren.

The scut can also be a signal of how relaxed a rabbit is. A calm rabbit usually shows the white part of the scut. Whenever the rabbit is anxious, the scut is pushed downwards.

If a doe rabbit wants to refuse a buck, the scut can be used to cover her private parts.

Rabbits have whiskers that are as long as the body is wide. Rabbits are born with approximately 76 whiskers arranged in seven to nine rows and different lengths. They are located on the mouth, nose, and cheeks and above the eyes.

The whiskers are used to sense objects around them and to move in the dark. Since rabbits don't see well close up, the whiskers assist them even in the light. Without whiskers it is difficult for rabbits to navigate.

Whiskers do shed, just like the rest of a rabbit's hair, but they don’t shed all at once.

Never trim the whiskers of a rabbit. There are sensory nerves located at the follicle end of each whisker, enabling delicate awareness of orientation. Whiskers are highly sensitive and it would be extremely uncomfortable and painful for the rabbit, if their whiskers are cut off.